How To Buy  Carpet

6 Costly Mistakes People Make When They Buy Carpet And How You Can Avoid Them

The purpose of this report is to arm you with the information so you can make an intelligent choice when buying carpet. After you read it, you should be able to choose the best carpet and pad for your needs and lifestyle that fits your budget. So here are the mistakes you should avoid:

Mistake No 1.  Replacing Existing Carpet With Hard Surface Flooring

 Most consumers have been lead to believe that hard surface flooring improves indoor air quality. However, the exact opposite is true. Today , many indoor air quality consultants and furnishing specifiers are reluctant to recommend carpet because of flawed thinking not based on scientific fact.

In the early 1990's, Sweden wanted to improve the indoor air quality of it’s public buildings and passed a law to remove all carpeting from public schools. After a few months, Swedish officials noticed a high incidence of illness among students in the schools.

 After measuring the indoor air quality of the hard surface flooring, Swedish scientists discovered that allergy and asthma symptoms worsened and indoor air pollution increased 800%!

Sweden immediately repealed the law and re-installed carpeting back into the schools.

Why did this happen? It’s quite simple. A carpet is a beneficial "sink" that can hold allergens and indoor air pollutants at the bottom of its fibers until they can vacuumed away on a daily basis or cleaned on a periodic schedule.

Without carpet, all the air pollutants in a building cannot be absorbed by hard surface flooring. So they bounce off the hard surface flooring and are inhaled by the building’s occupants.

For instance, the biggest indoor polluters are human beings. That’s because humans slough off dead skin on a constant basis.

This dead skin travels in the indoor atmosphere and it attracts dust mites. So when you see the small particles in a sunbeam at your home or office, you’re looking at dead human skin, dust mites and dust mite feces.

This is what goes up your nose when you don’t have enough carpeting in a building to hold it so it can be removed.

These finding were scientifically verified by Dr. Michael A. Berry Phd, former head of the EPA and research professor at the University Of North Carolina, in his book, Protecting The Built Environment.

Dr. Berry also got similar results that mirrored Sweden’s problem when he studied the indoor air quality at Charles Young Elementary School in Washington, D.C.

The other major benefit of carpeting is that it reduces heating and cooling costs by 13% ! This was proven in a study done by Kansas State University in 2007. Given that utility bills rise about 5% every year around the nation, paying 13% less for utilities makes a big difference. That’s because no other floor covering naturally insulates during hot and cold seasons like carpet. Plus no other flooring covering drastically reduces slip and fall injuries among young children, adults and seniors like carpeting.

Mistake No. 2 - Buying Defective Carpet

When shopping for carpeting, you should avoid buying "seconds" or "defective"carpet.

That’s because neither the manufacturer nor the retailer will offer a guarantee on the carpet.

Since wall to wall carpets are machine made, sometimes mistakes occur in the making and manufacturers sell off the seconds to carpet retailers at steep discounts. Many times the reason a carpet is labeled a second is not clear.

 So if you insist on buying a cheap "second" remnant for under $100 to use as an area rug, make sure the retailer opens the carpet up so you can se if there are any visible defects. If it doesn’t hold up and is not warranted, you won’t be out too much money.

Mistake No 3 - Falling For Free & Low Price Installation Offers

Most carpet retailers make a 40% profit margin just on the carpet. So if a carpet costs the retailer $20 a yard, and he marks it up 40%, you’ll pay about $34 a yard just for the carpet. So when a retailer advertises free installation , free furniture moving, free old carpet removal, and free padding , be careful. You may end up paying for these" freebees" one way or another.

Mistake No 4-Not Getting An Itemized Estimate

When shopping for carpet, try to get 3 or 4 estimates from reliable retailers. To find a good retailer, ask friends and neighbors for a referral and then BEFORE you even waste your time calling for an estimate, check each retailer’s reputation at the Better Business Bureau. Avoid any retailer who does not have a rating of "A" or higher. If a store is not listed, they may not have any complaints against them or they might have changed their name. So it’s a good idea to check them out on Yelp and Bazillions. Also, you can just "Google" a carpet store by typing in, "complaints about XZY Carpet Stores" . You might be surprised what pops up.

You can also include shop at home services, but make sure you do not buy from them or cave in to any high pressure sales tactics until you get 4 or 5 estimates.

No matter who you call, tell each retailer that you expect a detailed itemized estimate and that you will be shopping 4 or 5 other stores. You should not deal with any retailer who will not give you an itemized estimate. You itemized estimate should list:

A. The name of carpet manufacturer

This should be "clearly" printed on the estimate (i.e. Shaw, Mohawk, etc )

  B. The color or color number of carpet

( i.e . -Mauve or color # 21345 )

     C. The fiber content of carpet

( i.e.- 100% Nylon, Wool, Olefin, Polyester, etc)

100% NYLON 6.6, 6, or solution dyed is the absolute best fiber you can buy. It has excellent stain resistant properties and has bounce back memory in heavy traffic lanes. It is very easy to clean and spot. It should always be your first choice. The downside is that it may discolor from ozone or bright sunlight. So you should avoid using it at a seashore house near an ocean.

100% WOOL might be a second choice but it is quite expensive. If can cost anywhere from $80 a yard on up for wall to wall and up to $800+ a yard for designer area rugs and orientals. It’s very resilient, can hide its own weight in soil, and is anti-static. Its best characteristic is that it is flame resistant. That’s why its always used in airplane and cruise ship carpeting and seating. Its downside is that it is easily stained, and can be attacked by moths. Berber style carpet will provide the best performance with this fiber.

100% POLYPROPYLENE or Olefin is an synthetic fiber that’s made from a byproduct of gasoline. It has outstanding stain resist and anti-static properties. Since it’s made from petroleum, it rejects water and moisture so its great for basements but it loves oil. So oil stains are difficult to remove from this carpet. Outside of its love for oil, it’s a great choice for people with children and pets since it is almost impossible to stain. But it has poor bounce back resiliency and may flatten out in the traffic lanes. Also, it has a low melting point. So dragging heavy furniture across it will cause a burn line that won’t come out. Many berber style carpets are made with polypropylene. When choosing an Olefin berber, choose one with smaller loops since they don’t mat down as quickly as the larger looped carpets.

Since it won’t fade, it’s a great choice for a seashore home.

POLYESTER is a soft synthetic that is solution dyed, and holds color well but it is difficult to clean and it has poor bounce back properties or resiliency in traffic lanes. Once the traffic lanes become matted, its difficult to restore them with restoration cleaning. Since this fiber has a lower price point than nylon, consumers are tempted to buy them. This is a fiber you should avoid unless you put it in a spare room that gets light traffic.  

SORONA® or SmartBlend® is just a form of polyester made from corn. It is a little better than plain polyester and should only be considered in areas with light to medium traffic.

CARPET BLENDS You should avoid blended carpets like 80% wool-20% nylon, or80% nylon -,20% polyester. Depending on the mix, the cost savings may not be significant and they may not perform as well as a 100% pure fiber. Plus they’re tricky to clean and spot . That’s because you’re dealing with two or three separate fibers that must be cleaned and spotted with different solutions.

D. The Carpet Style 

PLUSH OR SAXONY are cut pile carpets that usually come in solid colors and have even tuft height. That’s why they show footprints and vacuum marks. Plush carpets are sometimes referred to as saxony, but a saxony is more dense.

TEXTURED PLUSH usually has more than one color of yarn and varied tuft heights to reduce footprint and vacuum marks. 

FRIEZE (pronounced "free-zay") is a tightly twisted carpet that curls back on itself which creates a nubby look. They’re good for high traffic areas and they’re good at hiding foot prints and vacuum marks.

CUT & LOOP or SCULPTURED style carpet is combination of a looped fiber and a cut pile or "plush" which gives the carpet a high/low appearance. This is good choice of style since it tends to hides soil very well and it gives the carpet a hand carved appearance.

LEVEL LOOP & MULTI-LEVEL LOOP A level loop carpet has a looped surface at a level height. A multi-level loop carpet has two or three different loop heights.

BERBER style carpet contains big and small tufts in a loop plie construction. They usually contain small flecks of dark and lighter shades of background colors. They are available in Nylon, Wool, and Olefin.

 D. The twist of the carpet

If you’re pricing a plush or saxony style carpet, the fibers are twisted and heat set. The tighter the fiber twist the better. The best plush carpets have at least 7 twists per inch. Less than 4 should be avoided when buying a cut pile carpet.

E. The face weight of the carpet

In most cases, the higher the face weight the better the carpet. However, a higher face weight is not the only indicator that a carpet may be durable. Face weights range from 20 oz, 30 oz, 40oz, 50 oz, 60 oz, 70oz , and 80 oz. Carpets installed in apartments are usually 20 to 30 ounces. Better carpets are 40 ounces on up with high density.

F. The density of the carpet

Look for a density rating of 2000 or higher. A good way you can experience density is to take a carpet sample and make a claw with your hand. Then try to push your fingertips to the back of the carpet. This will be difficult to do with a carpet that has a high face weight and density. Another way to test the density is to take the carpet sample and bend it in half. If you can see a "smile"or the backing of the carpet, it probably has a low face weight and density.

G. The price of the carpet for each square yard or square foot

There are 9 square feet in one square yard. Demand that the manufacturer and price of the carpet be separated from all other items on the estimate. If you buy the carpet and have a warranty claim, the manufacturer wants to know how much you paid just for the carpet. For this reason, you should not accept bundled pricing from anyone.

H. The price of the padding for each square yard or square foot

Good quality padding is determined by a density rating of 3 to 10 pounds. Padding also comes in 1/4" thickness to ½" thickness but thickness does not mean better. Padding that is 7/16" thick is commonly used for residential installations. The best residential padding will be 6 pound or 8 pound Rebond. This is usually priced from $3 to $4.50 per yard. It is multi-colored and made from recycled foam. Padding is also available in jute, rubber and synthetic blends. But rebond is the most popular. Whether your shopping for commercial or residential, make sure your pad weight is not below 6 pounds. Also, try to avoid buying special pet odor and moisture barrier pads since they are not a good value and they may cause pet odors to be more pronoounced.

I. The cost of installing the carpet per yard or square foot

The charge for installation will range anywhere from $2 to $6 a yard depending on where you live and the complexity of the installation. The installation charge may or may not include delivery, and the moving of all furniture in and out of the rooms. Also, find out the extra cost of removing the old carpet, pad and tack strip and putting it all out at the curb for garbage pick-up or hauling it away to a dump.

You should also inquire whether the installation costs include gold or silver metal trim where the carpet meets the hard floors in the doorways. Another extra charge might be to seal the floor because of cat or dog urine contamination in the sub-flooring. The best way to seal a floor is to apply it several days prior to installation to give it time to cure. It’s best to use a brand name pigmented shellac like KILZ ® or BIN ® . You can easily apply it yourself standing up with a roller attached to a five foot handle.

In addition, the cost of installation may not include include installing the stairs and floor preparation. Stair installations can run from $4 to $10 per stair in some areas. Some floors need to be repaired before installation. This would include making sure the floor is level, filling in holes and repairing damaged areas. If these extra services are not included in the installation, make sure these costs are itemized under the total cost of installation. 

J. Review The Carpet Warranty

 Make sure you request a copy of and read the warranty BEFORE you buy the carpet. Also, if the retailer guarantees the installation for life, then demand to see a copy of it BEFORE you buy. Some carpet warranties aren’t worth the paper their printed on and some require that you professionally clean your carpet every year for the warranty to stay in force. Most manufacturers DO NOT warrant steps! So read your warranty carefully. The better the face weight and density, the longer the wear warranty. Carpets with high face weights and density rating may be wear warranted for 15 to 25 years.

MAKE SURE THE INSTALLATION SPECS INCLUDE POWER STRETCHING 

A power stretcher has long handle that is pressed down by hand. It has a large head that is 6" x 12" that sits on top of the carpet as it grips it with its metal teeth. The installer has to stand up to use it so there is no way you can confuse it with a knee kicker. In addition, the industry installation standards that installers must follow states that power stretching is MANDATORY. So, it a retailer or installer refuses to use a power stretcher, then DO NOT buy your carpet from them. Reason? If you have a warranty claim that involves a carpet seam or carpet buckling in the future, the carpet mill will not honor your warranty claim! Here’s an excerpt from the Carpet And Rug Institute Installation Standards CRI 105 which is the installation guidelines of residential carpet. Note that it states that power stretching is "MANDATORY". 

The majority carpet installers will not use a power stretcher. So if the retailer cannot guarantee you in writing that your carpet will be power stretched, then DO NOT BUY FROM THAT RETAILER. Because as sure as the sun will rise tomorrow, your carpet will buckle and start developing wrinkles within a few years.

"CRI 105 states in 7.5 Power Stretching - Carpet must be properly power stretched and firmly hooked onto the tack strip . The use of a power stretcher is mandatory. Devices used as a substitute for, or an attachment to, a power stretcher may cause injury, damage carpet or sub floors, or result in an inadequate amount of stretch and are not acceptable.

Failure to power stretch a carpet may result in:

Wrinkling and buckling over time

Localized damage to the carpet

Delamination

Note: For patterned carpet, care must be exercised to ensure pattern alignment along walls. The use of a power stretcher, stay-nails, and a "dead man" may be necessary to achieve proper pattern match at seams and alignment along walls."

Also, please note that according to CRI standards,

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS AN INVISIBLE SEAM !

So if a seam is visible, your installer or retailer has done his best to make the seam less noticeable. Also,

 STEPS ARE NOT POWER STRETCHED.

Here’s a photo of a power stretcher:

Here’s a photo of a knee kicker:

There’s a BIG difference between a power stretcher and a knee kicker.

Mistake No. 5 Not Getting Several Estimates

One reason consumers over pay for carpet is because the yardage they need for the job is usually overestimated or over-measured by sales personnel. For instance, if you only need 100 yards of carpet at $30 a yard,($3000 total ) and the salesman says you need 120 yards, ( 20 x $30 =$600) ) you are then over charged by $600 and paid for 20 yards of carpet you didn’t need. To make sure you get honest measurements, make sure you request a diagram with your itemized estimate showing all the room to be carpeted and their dimensions. They should list the length and the width of each room in feet. ( i.e. 20 ft long x 10 ft wide = 200 square feet or 22. 2 square yards ( 200 / 9).

IMPORTANT TIP: Make sure you order a few extra yards in case you need an installer to make a carpet repair in the future. Otherwise, if a donor piece cannot be taken from a closet or runner, then you might have to replace a whole room of carpet. So if you determine that you need 100 yards of carpet, order 103 yards to play it safe.

If you get 5 estimates with diagrams, then you’ll get a good idea as to how many yards of carpet you ACTUALLY need.

When it comes to getting an accurate measurement, it might also be a good idea to get several estimates even if you have to pay for them. Some carpet stores and independent installers charge anywhere from $25 to $50 to come out and measure your job.

You will be credited for that amount if you decide to buy your carpet from them. Also, it’s a good idea to get an actual sample of the carpet you plan on purchasing. Some retailers will give you samples, others charge for them and other stores require a refundable deposit for the sample.

So whatever you do, make sure you get a several itemized estimates that include everything we outlined in this report.

Mistake No 6 - Paying For Carpet By Cash Or Check

You should not deal with any retailer that does not take major credit cards.

If you can’t pay for the WHOLE JOB with a credit card, then do not use that retailer. So avoid retailers who let you use a credit card for a small deposit, but want a cash or check for the balance of the job. In fact you should try to pay as little up front as possible. But if you must make a deposit, use a major credit card.

Most carpet retailers do not have in-house installers so they use sub-contractors. So , if something goes wrong with the installation, or if the carpet has visible defects when its delivered, or it looks like 30 oz carpet when you paid for 50 oz ( yes, it happens) or if the installer fails to use a power stretcher, you can hold back payment or dispute the charge with the card company until the job is completed to your satisfaction.

So here’s a review of what you need to do when shopping for carpet:

Get an itemized estimate with a drawn diagram showing the measurements of each room with an actual sample of each different carpet you will be buying

The name of the carpet manufacturer must be clearly printed on the estimate or invoice

The price of the carpet per yard or foot should be separated from other charges on the estimate

The twist rating of the carpet should be on the estimate if you’re buying cut pile carpet

The price of the padding per yard or foot with its pound rating should be on the estimate

The complete cost of installing the carpet per yard or foot with all charges for delivery, removing the old carpet, pad, tack strip, and cutting it up and placing on the curb or taking it to a dump. Unless included, charges for metal trim, stairs and floor preparation should be shown. 　

The estimate should state in writing that the installer will power stretch your carpet and install new tackless strip. DO NOT use the old tack strip since it may have bent teeth and may not hold the stretch of the carpet properly.  

Get 4 or 5 estimates with a diagram and actual carpet samples showing room length and width in feet so you know how much carpet your really need

When getting estimates, compare apples to apples. Don’t get a price from one retailer for Shaw 80 ounce light green nylon level loop carpet and get another estimate for Shaw polyester cut pile 30 ounce light green carpet.

Pay for the entire job only by credit card. If you must make a deposit, do it only by credit card based on the itemized estimate.

Eliminate all retailers who have a lousy Better Business Bureau rating or who refuse to give you an itemized estimate, diagram and carpet samples or who won’t take a credit card for 100% of the job.

 Also eliminate all retailers who refuse to power stretch your installation and install new tackless strip. Plus do not deal with any retailer who will not give you the pad weight, the carpet face weight, the density rating or the twist rating if applicable.

Review a copy of the manufacturer’s warranty BEFORE you buy

The style of the carpet and color or color code should appear on estimate

( i.e. plush, berber, level loop, light green or color 3456 )

The face weight of the carpet ( 20oz, 30oz, 40 oz, 50 oz etc)

We hope you’ve found this special report helpful and we hope it saves you a ton of money and aggravation when you shop for carpet. In fact, feel free to share it with a friend, relative, neighbor or co-worker who might be contemplating buying carpet now or in the near future. If have questions or concerns that were not covered in this report, just give us a ring at 609-586-5833 or send us an e-mail us at allstate@usa.net

      Sincerely, Rodney & Michele

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